I’ve got a lot on my mind, and there simply aren’t enough timer ticks to share it all coherently.
I was listening to Krista Tippett’s interview with Barbara Kingsolver (author of Animal, Vegetable, Miracle) this morning on my iPod, and I got to thinking how I’ve 180′d on my food procurement habits since Paris.
Now, Kingsolver’s book apparently recounts her and her family’s journey spending a year eating only locally. If they couldn’t grow it or get it from a local farmer, they weren’t going to eat it.
Looking into the history, turns out this is how most humans have eaten for most of time. Lettuce in the Midwest at a winter meal in 1975 was a luxury (see also: casseroles). You couldn’t grow it then, and these vast distribution systems n’existe pas. Local, organic, farmers’ market foods are now considered the luxury of the elite; back in the day it was the norm.
Never before has man been so alienated from his foodstuffs. Food is now a product, not a process.
This makes me think of a lot of things:
- I used to bike to the locally owned grocery, Wilcox’s, in order to buy a gallon of milk
- Wilcox’s went out of business in, I believe, the mid-90s
- Everybody unloaded their excess cucumbers, blackberries, green beans, you name it, onto everyone else in town. Growing up we had a huge plate of salad first, and then the rest of the meal.
- Everyone now drives twenty or so miles to South Bend to buy from a brightly-lit, 24-hour supermarket
When I was in Paris I did a lot of nibbling. I’d pick up some food whenever I was hungry and consume it right then. This is what happens when you don’t have, say, a fridge on hand.
I want to eat all of these RIGHT NOW
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But I got to thinking. Why not do the same thing once I get back to the States? Why I gotta load up the car with shit from Fairway — especially since something usually goes bad before I can get to it? Why not just pick up stuff from Whole Foods on my way home from the office each day?
So I’ve been doing that, in baby steps. Don’t remember when I last did a Fairway run (four months ago?). Have been hitting up the FortGreenemarket on the regular for scallops and turkey sausage and freshly cut flowers, oh my. And I’ve been dropping into Whole Foods, grabbing some food that I can carry with my own two hands (no basket or cart for me, thanks) and heading home to dangerously flirt with fruits-over-meats.
And it’s oh so nourishing, to use these two hands to love myself via food. To not feel entirely disconnected from the process. To de-product-ify foods.
My Aunt Suki’s brother is a farmer in Northern California that got a lot of shit from his family for not doing the expected Korean thing of doctor - engineer - whatever. “But, this!” he would exclaim, plucking a perfect apple from his orchard — “this is a gift from God!”
Fei was so excited after picking her first apple ever!
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Look, I’m not about to wax religious , but there is something nice about remembering the integrated-ness of the universe, about not rendering all these other forms of life that surround us into dumb symbols and widgets and UPC codes.
So, the marketing angle in all of this?
How about putting the face of a farmer that grew whatever foodstuff sits under the automated sprayers and blinding lights in the supermarket? How about giving the shoppers a chance to trick themselves into feeling more connected to another human?
We’ve done such great work to atomize, Taylorize, routinize. And I know I’m on a I-wanna-see-your-face kick, but damn. I may be human, but I’m also animal. And I want to feel connected, no matter how tangentially, to the rest of you anonymous animals out there.
Standard fare when I’m back home
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Come to think of it, perhaps that’s why I blog.